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Quarantine : Reducing Your Risks
by Ron James

Quarantine comes from the word "quarantina", which means around forty. In other words, 40 days in isolation for the bird/s, or is it forty lashes for the birdkeeper who doesn’t use a quarantine program ?

In my opinion, placing birds in a quarantine program, is like taking out an insurance policy. In both cases, you should assess the risks. That is, what will happen if you don't ? How much will it cost you if a problem arises ? Can you afford the loss if it occurs ?

The decision is yours, so don't blame anyone but yourself if you don't use a quarantine program and losses from your original stock occur


Breeding Cabinets that would be well suited as Quarantine Units

This article is written to make sure you are aware of why quarantine is recommended and what procedures are used in quarantine.

Every bird you place in quarantine may not be flying at the end of the program, BUT, if you have followed a program suitable for your type of bird, you will certainly have reduced your risks.

You're about to purchase that new pair of birds that you've wanted for ages. BEFORE you go and collect them, you should have a few things in readiness for your new arrivals.

Ensure that:

1. Your carry box is clean.

This means cleaned and disinfected since the last time it was used – not simply turning it upside down and shaking out the leftover bird seed and droppings.

There is seed for the bird to eat during the journey.

There is some form of moisture available for the bird, such as a piece of apple or a piece of cotton wool soaked with waster – especially if the journey is likely to be more than a couple of hours.

2. The quarantine cage/aviary is ready.

The cage/aviary should be suitable for the type of birds being purchased.

Perches are fresh or washed and thoroughly dried.

Fresh water, seed, suitable greens, cuttlefish and shellgrit are already in place. It is advisable to check with the person from whom you are purchasing the birds as to the birds existing diet as it may vary considerably from yours, therefore, it may be better to gradually introduce your own mix rather than offer the birds something they are not familiar with. ALSO, to help your birds settle in, the quarantine cage/aviary should be situated away from the other cages/aviaries and preferably in a quiet area.

Water and food should be placed near the perches, as birds placed in new surroundings new to them, quite often do not venture around for a few days.

Your feeding, watering and cleaning visits should be routine from the outset. Entering and moving about the cage/aviary should be cautious and deliberate without sudden movement.

Somewhere you can observe the birds without sticking your face against the wire will help the birds adjust to their new surroundings.

Try and organize to place your birds as early in the day as possible to allow them to acclimatize themselves to their new surroundings.

Stress makes the birds more susceptible to disease. The use of suitable clean carry-boxes with appropriate seed and water available, then placement in the quarantine cage/aviary, as described, helps to reduce the stress inflicted on the birds. Some birds are actually “carriers” of disease. When these birds are exposed to stress, quite often their disease becomes apparent.

Quarantine allows the birds time to acclimatize to their new home and by the time they are ready to be placed with your existing birds, they are not stressed. This reduces the risk of introducing disease into your aviary.

Observation during Quarantine:

The purpose of quarantine is to detect and eliminate potential problems before they enter your aviaries. You must observe all birds in quarantine for any signs of disease

Common signs are

Prolonged inactivity

Eye or nasal discharge

Weight loss

Soiled vent or diarrhoea

Wheezing or gasping

Fluffed up with head under wing.

Note: If birds in quarantine exhibit signs of disease they should be placed in a hospital cage, that should be warmed to around 25-30 Celsius, where they can be more closely monitored and the appropriate treatment administered. If the birds come through their hospital ordeal, they should be placed in a quarantine cage and their quarantine period begins again, before introducing them into your aviaries. I believe you should have a diary or somewhere you can write down when you placed the birds in quarantine, when and what medication was given etc. this gives you an accurate record of exactly how you have conducted your quarantine program.

At the end of your quarantine program the birds should exhibit all the signs of being healthy and in good condition. It is then and only then, that they should be allowed in with your existing flock.


(Quarantine your birds before placing into your Aviary complex)

EXAMPLE OF A QUARANTINE PROGRAM

Preparation of cage/aviary:

Cleaned and disinfected (including perches)

Paper on bottom or under perches to collect droppings (if necessary)

Food and water etc. in position before new birds arrive

Treatment of birds:

Check for external parasites such as lice and mites. Spray the birds thoroughly with a residual spray such as AVIAN INSECT LIQUIDATOR

Worming - Use of any quality brand treatment, direct to the beak, rather than those placed in the drinking water and administered as soon as practical after quarantining birds.

Hygiene:

Clean cages and feed birds in quarantine after normal aviary maintenance

Wash hands after attending to quarantine birds

Wash and disinfect food and water containers regularly (daily)

Be careful not to carry droppings, feathers, waste etc. back to existing aviaries

The next step:
If your observations reveal a problem, the following steps should be taken immediately.

Move your bird/birds to a hospital cage

If unsure of the problem or treatment, contact your local avian Veterinarian. Do not administer any treatment until advised by the Vet.

If you know exactly what the ailment is, treat it according to the manufacturers instructions.

The process described may seem too excessive, but it is up to YOU, THE BIRDKEEPER, to determine the level of risk you are prepared to accept when you purchase your birds.

(Photographs © 1999 by Kerry Cooper)